KKK: Kraziness in Karai Kudi

Sep 5th 2009

 Authors Note: Hell, if there is Krusty the Klown & if not can be Knot..then why can’t I?!

 Back home, a well earned leave-took the train from Chennai to Karikudi for a friend’s marriage. A couple of years back I would have thought going to a  ‘rural’ location would be something of a tourist attraction but after you’ve walked a mile in my shoes(a.k.a seeing Bengal at all its mighty), this really did not flap my feathers 😉

 Kariakudi- is considered to be quite famous for its cuisine(chettinad Im told) and is a semi-touristy location due its magnificent cum ancient houses that resemble mini palaces..jaipur eat your heart out!


Natures Beauty!

 We landed up at the station at dead 1 am in the morning and everyone around us seemed to be looking for what we were too..a ride to our hotel. Fortunately/Unfortunately there were just 2 of them in the entire town and no one had heard of our hotel. After about 20 mins, I started eyeing the best place outside the ticket counter where I could crash for the night. I liked the counter minus the dogs and conmen , aka, counter 2B.   Finally reached the haunted looking hotel where I slept like a log inspite of the female company I had ( mosquitoes…what else?)

 Next morning bright and early ( I mean 9ish), we headed out to explore the town to grab them grub. I was as excited as a kid seeing santa claus as there were so many south Indian restaurants tempting me with their 17×22 ad boards of steaming delicious idlies, vadas, dosas..the list was endless as was my appetite after being starved of south Indian food in Bengal. 


The French Connection

The French Connection

I was stunned out of my mind to see a France inspired menu on pasted on the hotel bill board-  and if I can recall my French , apparently the hotel has an open garden(ouvrez le jardin), a meeting hall and some kinda play pen for the kids to bawl their eyes out instead of being an embarrassment. Let the parents have 1 damn meal in peace!

Its more than just a rest-ta-rant!

Arun’s Icecream and Bonbons?

Anyways, had a delicious relaxed breakfast which consisted of (surprise surprise) steamed idlis and sambhar vada, I decided that it would be incomplete without a steaming tumbler of filter kaapi!

Karaikudi Kaapi !

KariaKudi Kaapi!

Trying to aarithify (for non tams it refers to the expert way of pouring the coffee from the tumbler to the dabara(the base vessel) in a feeble attempt to allow the cool air of karikudi do its magic. After 3 such clumsy attempts, the following were the outcomes of my science-experiments-you-should-not-try-at-home :


  1. Third degree burns on my tongue
  2. 30% of the coffee spread all across the table
  3. Managed to spread my stupidity in remote corners of South India(when it was just restricted to Eastern India for the last 6 months)

 Post my meal and faux pas, I had to clean up, but a stealthy look at the wash basin which seemed to be straight out of the set of a B grade tamil prision flick, I decided that a set of 5 tissues would be an apposite replacement for the same. On requesting the same, the waiter gave me a blank look that made me reminisce myself when I looked at my 9th standard Physics final paper. I was confident in spite of protests from my friend who gently suggested to use the means used by the cattle class/common man. I was confident that my waiter would not let me down, but alas , he returned with what seemed to be 8×4 cms of cut out Tamil newspapers from Dina Malar- a local tamil daily. He infact gave them to me quite smugly thinking that he had surpassed himself in the hurculean task assigned by me. Necessary is the Mother of Invention they say. I believe it.

Paper Tissues.

Paper Tissues

 We headed out to the marriage hall of my friend (M) and met up with the rest of my batch mates. Was glad to meet them, well most of them atleast 😉 I was awestruck at the size and scale of the function, it seemed that M was the local headman of the that village and he had invited the whos who(by that I mean the entire county). Im sure the local political hotshots can take a cue from M and try to pull stunts like this before the local elections!  After catching up with the guys over a scrumptious and very traditional meal, we decided it was time to part ways.

Nikil, Solanki, Babu, Sid, REC Prashant, Raghav -me!(L to R)

Headed back to the hotel room and hit the sack for a good 3 hours post which we checked out to catch the bus to Tiruchy( a 3 hour journey from Kariakudi). The bus stand in Kkudi was enormous with buses zipping across in an around with a reputation like the Blue Lines of Bombay ( Sue me, its Bombay). The buses interestingly were boarding passengers based on not who came first to the seat but on the orders of a very imposing looking Village Elder/Local Thug of the Bustand who kept barking out orders. He seemed to be of atleast 50 years with an imposing mustache and a the whitest shirt and lungi with a  burning yellowish angavastram. He certainly looked & played his part. 

His peon who held an umbrella over his head seemed to be in awe of his master like the tourists who gaped open mouthed at the way things were being run. Not wanting to disturb the set processes or question the legality/sanity of the proceedings, I decided to get his attention so that he would decide that I was ticket worthy in his vast network of bus hooliganism in Kirundi. I guess either I was transparent or no important enough, for over 15 minutes we were pretty much stranded. The rebel in me came out and decided that enough was enough, we had to get a bus before we were picked up for an possible Cast member for LOST: Karikudi. A LO, a bus that was empty came screaming across and we ran alongside it, threw our bangs into the seat through the window thereby *claiming* our seats. It was a tipping point, we could see scores of travelers follow suite and throw whatever they could into the bus hoping it would land on the seat meant for them- be it bags, bottles or babies. Mission get a bus was a success!

 The bus was packed like sardines in a can but the long trip was quite enjoyable due to the driver’s good taste in classic tamil music which I was very glad I could second guess most of them within the first 5 seconds. Naan orru Pacchi Tamilzhan!

Bus Stand

Reached Trichy, had a quick dosa-idli combo and caught the A/c fancy Volvo to Chennai for an overnighter. For once, the movie played in a Volvo bus was something to my fancy – a new tamil movie called Vennila kabbadi Kudu. Highly recommended. If I see Golmaal or No Entry one more time like I’d been forced to see in my in-numerable trips in Bengal I would have perhaps done a rerun of Speed- I (being a bad guy of course!)


4 Responses to “KKK: Kraziness in Karai Kudi”

  1. The wait for your post was well worth it! Great piece of travel writing. Now the kaapi bit is an embarrassment to the kulam.

  2. Hey, hope u deliberately forgotten the “ASHBY” complex story and also i could find some misrepresentation of facts in this blog…Lol 🙂

  3. Hello from Russia!
    Can I quote a post in your blog with the link to you?

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